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Borobudur, un mandala dans la jungle


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Borobodur, Java - Indonésie

Aux premières heures du matin, enveloppés dans le sarong réglementaire, nous sommes au pied du Borobudur, deux millions de blocs de pierre vieux de 1200 ans. Le plus grand temple bouddhique du monde. Vision saisissante que cette énorme structure de roches volcaniques enveloppée d’un écrin végétal.InspirationAmoncellement géométrique, symétrique, carré puis circulaire, gigantesque mandala, au sommet duquel des centaines de cloches semblent endormies.

La couleur sombre des pierre tranche sur la palette des verts. Forêt de pics entouré d’une forêt de palmes.
Nous gagnons immédiatement le sommet, passant en un instant du monde terrestre au nirvana. Nous prendrons le temps de suivre le chemin de l’illumination plus tard. Pour l’heure nous voulons nous imprégner du lieu, assis en silence à côté des stupas devant le spectacle de la nature qui s’ébroue et s’éveille, chauffée par les premiers rayons.
Au chant du coq succède l’appel des muezzins. C’est le signal qu’attendait la brume ; la voilà qui s’élève, s’évapore, se condense. Respiration lente de la forêt. Son envol laisse apercevoir des collines. La-bas c’est le Mérapi qui devrait apparaître … ou pas !

Les nuages moutonnants ne sont pas pressés d’aller voir ailleurs. Ils contribuent à nimber d’un je-ne-sais-quoi de mystique ce temple étrange qui a su résister aux éruptions, au temps, à la colonisation végétale et aux bombes, enroulé autour de sa colline.

Borobodur, Java - Indonésie
Nous nous décidons à redescendre pour entreprendre une montée dans les règles, dans le sens des aiguilles d’une montre comme il se doit. Et avec des explications pour mieux admirer encore la délicatesse et la finesse des bas-reliefs de cette bibliothèque à ciel ouvert.
Bas-relief sur BorobodurDésirs et mauvaises habitudes ; songe de la reine Maya ; premiers pas du prince Siddhartha qui font naître des lotus ; quête et long cheminement jusqu’à l’éveil…
Nous suivons de panneau en panneau notre chemin de Poucet pèlerin. Les pèlerins authentiques, en un nombre défini de tours à chaque niveau, font plus de 5 kilomètres avant d’atteindre le sommet. Nous ne sommes pas si sages. Et nous retrouvons les stupas des derniers étages.

A ses disciples lui demandant comment conserver ses reliques le Bouddha répondit en posant sa robe, puis son bol d’aumône, et enfin son bâton planté sur le tout. La forme de la stupa était née de ces trois éléments combinés, forme de cloches à nos yeux conditionnés. Celles-ci possèdent chacune un Bouddha paisible et méditant.

Séance photographieNous sommes brutalement tirés de notre état contemplatif par une foule d’ écoliers indonésiens qui veut nous prendre en photo. Pour un peu on volerait la vedette à Bouddha lui-même ! Mon sourire figé est immortalisé une bonne centaine de fois. Notre guide nous laisse à notre shoot photo. « Les indonésiens aiment vos nez pointus et le contraste de vos peaux », nous glisse-t-il. « A chaque pause c’est du bon karma ».

Après ce qui fut alors un véritable bain de jouvence karmique, attendus de pied ferme par des dizaines de vendeurs qui espèrent bien en récolter quelques fruits, nous cherchons la sortie. Je suis longuement suivie par un vendeur de cartes sur lesquelles j’ai eu le malheur de poser les yeux. La chaleur monte, la sortie approche, les prix dégringolent. Allez ! Un peu de bon karma en plus ça ne peut pas faire de mal…

Homies

Borobudur, Java - Indonésie

Sous la pluie

Paparazzi

Borobudur, Java - Indonésie

Borobudur, Java - Indonésie

Borobudur, Java - Indonésie

Borobudur, Java - IndonésiePris au piège

Look improbable

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Bouddah Borobudur, Java

 

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