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Des temples en veux-tu en voilà ! Prambanan, Plaosan et Boko


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Contemplations, temples de Prambanan
Après les roches volcaniques, les cendres, le bitume, les graviers, nous retrouvons du minéral sacré et renouons avec les vieux cailloux. Nous avions commencé notre boucle à moto par Borobudur, nous la terminons par Prambanan.

Prambanan

Statue

Comme Borobudur cet ensemble majestueux est estampillé UNESCO. Légèrement alanguis nous avons tant tardé à nous approcher des vénérables cailloux que le soleil et la chaleur nous collent aux basques. C’est rougeauds et le front brûlant que nous devons prendre la pause rituelle devant les multiples téléphones portables qui ont surgi à notre arrivée. Point d’offrande en bâtonnets d’encens, à Java, quand on arrive sur un lieu sacré, c’est un petit don de soi et de son image que l’on doit faire pour le plaisir des autres…

Les temples de Prambanan furent érigés entre le VIIIe et le Xe siècles. Dans cet ensemble hindou, trois temples se partagent la vedette et dominent l’espace. Ils sont consacrés à Shiva, Vishnou et Brahma. L’esplanade où ils s’élèvent est ceinturée de 244 petites temples aujourd’hui à l’état de tas de blocs. Un tremblement de terre en 2006 a réduit en quelques minutes ce que des générations d’hommes ont mis si longtemps à faire sortir du néant.
Un guide accompagne notre découverte du site. Il est notre interprète, il parle la langue des pierres sacrées. Avec lui on ne visite pas un lieu, on ouvre un livre d’histoires. Ici la vie de Krishna, là des épisodes du Râmâyana. Ailleurs des scènes érotiques largement commentées par ce conteur aux airs de Rabelais.

Plaosan

Temples de Plaosan

A quelques tours de roues de là le site de Plaosan mêle aussi temples fièrement dressés et tas de ruines. A l’intérieur les chauves-souris sont devenues les nouvelles gardiennes de ces lieux, se contentant de déféquer sur les statues qui ont si longtemps tenu ce rôle. A l’extérieur des toits dentelés de stupas et des dragons qui ouvrent leur gueule pour façonner des portes tandis que leur langue immense se déroule le long des escaliers.

Boko

Temples de Boko

Dominant Prambanan, le temple de Boko, perché sur sa colline, veille sur la plaine de ses quelques ruines ; A côté de quelques bassins dévolus aux ablutions royales un écriteau précise qu’on ne doit pas venir y faire sa lessive ; Une grande plate-forme s’élève, pour se rapprocher du ciel ? Un portail reste debout dont quelques arches offrent un cadre au soleil couchant ; et une grande esplanade herbeuse s’étend, où le gardien aura toutes les peines du monde à rassegggmbler son troupeau à l’heure de fermeture…

Temples de PlaosanBas reliefTemple à PrambananEcole à PrambananPrambananTemples de PlaosanPrambananTemples de PrambananSculptureTemples de Prambanan

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